Saw

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A saw is a hand-operated tool that has a thin metal blade or disk with a sharp, usually tooth-edged, used for cutting wood, metal, or other hard materials. The larger sized saws are operated by steam, water, electric or other power. The teeth of the saw are each bent to specific angle called "set". The set of a tooth depends upon the cut that the saw will make. Different saws have different tooth sets depending upon their application. In some saws, there is an abrasive disc or band for cutting, rather than a serrated blade. They are supposed to be the oldest known hand tools. Innovations made over many years are still present in modern, mass-produced hand tools.


Parts of a saw


The toe is the front end of the saw. The heel is the end near the handle. The portion of the saw where teeth are found is the front of the saw. The back of the saw is the part opposite the teeth that faces up in normal use. The nib is the bump seen on the back of many saws, near the toe. It serves no purpose and hence not seen in all saws. The etch and medallion are on the left side of the saw. Medallion is the name given to the enlarged face of one of the saw nuts that holds the handle. This usually depicts the brand name of the manufacturer.

Raw Materials
The main material used to make saw blade is tempered, high-grade tool steel, alloyed with certain other metals, like brass, steel, carbon etc. Diamond is also used in making saws for the really heavy cutting but they are expensive and come in two shapes: circular and rope saws. Diamond saws are made by mixing powder metal with diamond crystals. These are heated and pressed into a molding to form the diamond segments. Handles are made of wood, but modern hand saws can also be made with molded plastic.

Types of hand saw
Handsaws include several types of saws which look more or less same and are used for cutting of timber from boards and sometimes making larger joints. We give below a list of various types of hand saws with their uses and features:

• Rip Saw: A ripsaw has large, chisel shaped teeth, usually -½ teeth per inch, and is made to cut with the wood grain. Blade length differs from 24" to 28". Teeth are cross-filed to assure that the chisel point is set square to the direction of cutting, for best performance. This saw is best held at 60° angle to the surface of the board being cut. The ripping action of the saw produces a coarse, ragged cut which makes the saw unsatisfactory for finish work.
  
  
  
• Cross Cut Saw: Most commonly used crosscut saws are 10 to 12 point for fine work and 7 or 8 point for faster cutting. Ten teeth per inch is considered general purpose, 12-point being used for cabinet work. Teeth are shaped like knife points to crumble out wood between cuts.Best cutting angle for this saw is about 45°. Blade lengths range from 20" to 28", 26" is most popular.
  
  
  
• Panel: They are smaller in size than a cross cut saw and used for cutting wood across the wood grain.
  
  
  
• Bow Saw: Bow saws consist of a tubular steel frame and a saw blade for fast cutting of all woods. The bow saw's frame is important, since the thin blade, usually ¾" wide, must be held under high tension for fast cutting. A general purpose saw, it has the advantage of all-round utility and light weight.
  
  
  
• Coping Saw: Coping saws cut irregular shapes and intricate patterns. They consist of a saw blade and steel tension frame. The blade is removable. Blade sizes range from the rotary or wire type to 1/8" wide. They can make intricate cuts at extreme angles.
  
  
  
• Pull Saw: It gives a good control and eliminate the chance of the saw kinking in the kerf and particularly used for fine woodcutting, molding and trim.
  
  
  
• Dovetail Saw: A dovetail saw blade is constructed with the reinforced ridge found on a backsaw, giving it added rigidity and greater precision. This saw cuts a true, smooth, narrow kerf. It has a straight handle for precise, positive grip. Teeth are very fine for smooth work. Dovetails are used in picture framing, cabinet work, toy making, etc.
  
  
  
• Keyhole Saw: Keyhole or compass saws cut curved or straight-sided holes. Saw blades are narrow, tapered nearly to a point to fit into most spaces. Blades come in three or four styles that can be changed to fit the job. Turret-head keyhole blades can be rotated and locked in several positions for easier cutting in tight, awkward spots.
  
  
  
• Drywall Saw/ Wall board Saw: This saw resembles a kitchen knife in design. It will cut plasterboard in the same fashion as a keyhole saw and is used for sawing holes for electric outlets, switchplates, etc. The saw is self-starting with a sharp point for plunge cuts. Wallboard or drywall saws may also have induction teeth for longer life, without sharpening.
  
  
  
• Hacksaw: Specially designed for metal cutting, this type of saw has very fine teeth and thin blades, held under tension in a steel frame.
  
  
  
• Veneer saw: Veneer saws are specially designed for sawing thin materials such as wood paneling. The blade is curved downward at the end, with cutting teeth on the curved part of the back to saw slots or grooves in the panel with minimum damage. Standard saw lengths are about 12"-13", with 14 teeth per inch.
  
  
  
• Rod saw: Rod saws are a form of hacksaw-type blades, used in regular hacksaw frames and capable of cutting through most hard materials such as spring and stainless steel, chain, brick, glass and tile. The blade consists of a permanently bonded tungsten carbide surface on a steel rod. Since the blade is round, it can cut in any direction.
  
  
  
• Back Saw: A backsaw is a thick-bladed saw with reinforced back to provide the rigidity necessary in precision cutting. It varies in length from 10" to 30" and is found in tooth counts from seven to 14 teeth per inch.
  
  

Features of saws
Some features common in saws are as follows:

• Tempered alloy blades: Lower grade steel quickly loses sharp edge but is easy to sharpen.
  
  
• Rust-resistant or Teflon-S blade finish : Teflon-coated handsaws reduce many binding and residue build-up problems inherent to wood cutting. Reduced friction or drag makes for smoother, easier cutting.
  
  
• Hardwood or sturdy plastic handle.
  
  
• Special aluminum or plated-steel nuts and bolts to fasten blade to handle.
  
  
• Taper-ground blades, thicker at the cutting edge, to prevent binding in the cut.
  
  
  
• Bevel-filed teeth evenly set in two alternate rows, one row to the right of center, one row to the left; produces a groove or kerf slightly wider than the thickest part of the blade; prevents or reduces binding while sawing.